The Wiseling Blog

A Creator’s Portrait with Christina Elleni

Imagine being able to carry a reminder of your favorite place with you where ever you go. Now imagine getting to wear a piece of jewelry that is utterly unique, chic, and statement worthy. Christina Elleni’s accomplished work combines the best of both. Using both traditional and cutting-edge construction techniques, Christina offers up a stunning selection of bangles, pendants, and rings featuring some of the most recognizable architectural feats in the world. Pay homage to NYC by wearing her Chrysler Building ring/pendant on your travels or show your love for the west coast by wearing the Golden Gate Bridge via Christina’s knuckle duster ring. Currently located in San Francisco, where she continues to tempt us with piece after impressive piece, Christina shares her creative process, unique approach to fashion, and sources of inspiration. 

When did your interest in creating jewelry start? 

It started when I was about 19. I had gone to fashion school for a year as soon as I finished high school. I worked really hard and loved learning new construction skills but I found the culture was a bit rough. I had just come from an all-girls high school and it seemed too similar to really excite creativity. I took a year off, worked, saved and traveled for 6 months to about 5 countries. When I came home I had to decide if I was going to go back to fashion school or go to art school instead. I chose art school. By second semester in your first year you have to pick a major for the rest of your degree. At the time there were 2 classes I loved - Sculpture and Jewelry. It was really tough picking but I had always loved making things that people could wear and really cherish so jewelry won out.

…that was really long winded. Sorry!

Where do you find inspiration?

From objects and places I love and people I admire. I went through a kind of organic tea phase at Uni (college)…everything I made was organic looking and was modeled on either a teapot or a teacup or had tea leaves in it. I was slightly obsessed. I also had a fantastic group of friends in my workshop who would inspire me with their work. Then in my final year I got really excited about challenging myself to be as precise and as anti-organic as I could. 

My Dad is an architect and my Mum used to be one too. Both of them work so meticulously. Even their handwriting looks like it’s been typed. I really envied that I suppose. 

I had also just come back from travelling overseas again and wanted to make pieces that reminded me of all the wonderful places I’d seen. I started to consider buildings and how different architecture can really make a huge impact on the city it’s a part of…and how magical it can be I suppose. And that’s what continually inspires me.

What kind of materials do you most prefer to work with?

Silver. Definitely silver. I like perspex and wood too but silver is just more fun and permanent. Oh and I have just started working with gold which is really fun too.

Of all of the designs you’ve ever made, which is your favorite?

Hmm that’s tough. Probably my gold Taj Mahal ring necklace. I know it’s not the fanciest or most complex or the biggest piece, but it’s one I really enjoy wearing.

What is your go-to day to day outfit?

(My cool, when-I-leave-the-house answer) Right now my favorite outfit is an Angela Lansbury t-shirt that my sister lent me (JB Fletcher’s my girl, I love Murder She Wrote) and my blue AG jeans with white polka dots OR my floral Citizens of Humanity jeans, a pair of little dangly silver and pearl earrings I just made and flip flops.

(My real life, uncool answer) I am working from home right now, so my pajamas!

What were you wearing as an art student?

Ha ha, oh dear. Ummm well, always enclosed shoes and an apron…and probably leggings, a tank top and a hoodie. I used to ride my bike to Uni so definitely practical, very worn-in clothing and a backpack…not fashionable at all. My friends would be amazed when I wore anything that resembled an actual outfit.

Which recent purchase are you most excited about?

I just bought a new Foredom Flexible Shaft for polishing, carving, drilling etc. I get to pick it up tomorrow and I’m so pumped! 

What is your favorite place in the world?

The beach! I’m from Sydney and grew up on the beach so that’s my happy place…specifically, probably Tamarama or Bronte on a beautiful summer’s day.

Visit Christina’s site.

Shop Christina Elleni jewelry.

Is there an artist, designer, or performer that you would like to see featured? Tell us about them in the comments.  

A Creator’s Portrait with Kate Jones

In a world full of overdesigned jewels, finding a piece that strikes the perfect balance between statement and understated elegance can seem like a lost cause. Luckily, there exists designers like Kate Jones. Drawing on a wealth of knowledge and experiences that most could only dream of, Kate creates the beautiful heirloom-worthy pieces that her brand Ursa Major has become known for. Her most recent architectural Collection No. 3 has really captured our attention with necklaces, earrings, bangles, and rings that promise to stand the test of time and outlast even the most popular of trends. Here, the master jeweler answers our questions. 

Image via Backyard Bill. 

When did your interest in creating jewelry begin?

The truth of the matter is, probably at about age 10. I spent a lot of time playing around with polymer clay (like Fimo and Sculpey) making my own beads. I was obsessed with the technique of “caning” or millefiori, and then I started making these funky animal brooches from it, Keith Haring-esque shaped fishes and dogs . My mom wore one into a store, and that was it, my first order. So I think I’ve had a business number since the age of 12.  

Did you study jewelry design or are you self-taught?

A little of both. My first metalsmithing class was at Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, in Deer Isle, Maine, through a high school program they did in the state.  Then I went onto study at Rhode Island School of Design, but I only did the first year of jewelry and metalsmithing before switching to textiles. It’s ironic, Lauren Manoogian and Caitlin Mociun were also classmates in textiles, and we all do jewelry now. I gained a tremendous technical foundation from RISD but learned a hell of a lot from just practical application and on-the-job experience, every summer I would return home to Maine and work in a small store called, A Silver Lining, doing repairs and custom work. That’s when I learned just how much of the craft is about tools and tricks, which is to say a lot. A whole lot.

Where do you find inspiration?

Oh boy, in everything. But if I had to name the top hits I’d say art and architecture, and in the pursuit of making old new again.

Do you like to wear your own pieces?

Of course! But when people ask me if I’m wearing any of my jewelry, I get bashful after about the third piece or so. I actually have to be a bit careful not to wear much of the jewelry I own but didn’t create because invariably people always pick that out first and excitedly say, “Did you make that?!”

What is your favorite part about being a jewelry designer?

The detail, the problem solving, and the opportunity to create a piece that might be handed down 100 years from now.

Describe your typical studio uniform.

Jeans and an old oversized Smith and Hawken denim shirt.

What is your fondest childhood memory?

Living on our sailboat, Ursa Major, we spent a lot of time hanging out in Antigua, and there was a spot called Shirley Heights. It was an old fort high up overlooking English and Falmouth Harbors, and every Sunday night was Jump Up, otherwise known as the classic Caribbean party: steel drums, reggae, BBQ, and rum punch. I was 8 and dancing my ass off with the locals, BBQ sauce smeared across my face. 

What are you most looking forward to in the new year?

Expanding the brand, new projects, and travel. I’m creating a line of hardware, collaborating on a bag, and foraying into the world of objects. I can’t wait.

Shop Ursa Major here. 

Visit the Ursa Major blog.

All images via the Ursa Major Collection No. 3 Lookbook.

Is there an artist, designer, or musician that you would like to see featured? Tell us about them in the comments.

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Movie Review: Anna Karenina

We had high sartorial expectations for Joe Wright’s adaptation of Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. After all, the film had all of the trappings of a fashion masterpiece: billowing ballgowns, dazzling jewelry, voluminous fur, and even a cameo by Cara Delevingne. What came as a pleasant surprise was that what Wright created was more than eye candy, it was nuanced visual storytelling at its finest. Abandoning traditional sets, the he juxtaposed the ritual and fantasy of high Russian society against the realities of the simpler peasant existence by setting the scenes revolving around Anna in a theater that changed to suit the story’s needs, alternately evolving from Anna’s home to a train station to a ballroom and more. Wright’s unique approach to storytelling was further complemented by the superb acting of the movie’s stellar cast. Keira Knightley was truly convincing as the Russian socialite-turned-pariah, and our hearts broke over the soul-crushing devotion shown by Anna’s dutiful husband as played by Jude Law. Add to all of this the previously downplayed sexual tension, and it is easy to see why this film has us buzzing with excitement. Anna Karenina is a must-see this season for fashion enthusiasts and movie buffs alike. 

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Trend Watch: Art Deco Jewels

With Thanksgiving come and gone, the holiday season has officially begun, and with it, all of those formal parties. One of the best ways to bring new life to the standard party dress is with some seriously dramatic jewelry. Luckily for us, designers this season have gone above and beyond the holiday standard of pave everything, looking toward Old Hollywood glamour for inspiration.

1. Vince Camuto 2. Sorrelli 3. Alexis Bittar 4. Alkemie 5. Swarovski 6. Oscar de la Renta 7. Rewind Vintage Affairs 8. Dannijo 9. Cara Mia Vintage 10. Moritz Glik 11. Peter Lang

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Dannijo Launches Bridal Line

If love wasn’t a good enough excuse, come December 1 would-be brides will have another reason to walk down the isle. That is, the new bridal line by NYC based jewelry company, Dannijo. The new line is a logical step for Dannijo creators and sisters, Danielle and Jodie Snyder. Danielle explained to Elle.com that many sartorially aware brides were already buying Dannijo jewelry to wear to their nuptials or as gifts for their bridesmaids, so they wanted to meet their customers’ needs. The line consists of seven dazzling pieces, handcrafted in New York with Swarovski crystals. With their “Old Hollywood glam” inspiration and Dannijo’s trademark downtown cool, we might just have to buy some pieces regardless of marital status. 

Shop the new collection at dannijo.com.

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Trend Watch: Bold Necklaces

The biggest jewelry trend (both literally and figuratively) this fall is, without a doubt, bold necklaces. Helmed by street style icons like Miroslava Duma and Leandra Medine, large ornate necklaces have caught on with a vengeance and were a constant presence outside shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris this fashion month. We love these large and in charge necklaces as the perfect fall jewelry that won’t get lost in the weave of heavy knit sweaters like their more delicate counterparts might. 

1. Swarovski 2. Paula Bianco 3. Lulu Frost for J Crew 4. Lanvin 5. Heaven Tanudiredja 6. Tom Binns 7. Zara 8. Michael Kors 9. Alexander McQueen 10. Oscar de la Renta 12. Stella & Dot 13. Giuseppe Zanotti 14. BCBG 15. Dannijo 16. Bimba & Lola 17. Moran Porat

How will you be wearing this trend?

Point of Reference: Wrist Watches

The wrist watch, as a piece of jewelry that is as practical as it is decorative, is unusual from its other utilitarian counterparts in that it was first created for and used by women. Seen as a passing fad in the early 1900s, the wrist watch would not catch on among men until World War I when they found that their pocket watches were well-suited to the trenches. 

Since then, the wrist watch has become the most ubiquitous piece of jewelry, worn by both men and women of all ages and across most cultures. With the development of new fabrication processes, watches now come in a wide variety of designs and levels of quality, from plastic fashion watches at Target to diamond encrusted designer heirlooms that cost as much as a house. With such a range, we like to find the perfect balance between quality and affordability. We love this Kate Spade watch as a timeless piece that is worth the investment, but won’t break the bank.

A Creator’s Portrait with Sonya Gallardo

There has long been a great divide between the fine arts and handmade crafts in the art world. Often referred to as high art and low art, respectively, purveyors of the two constantly seek to break the boundaries of these labels. Sonya Gallardo, however, has chosen a different route: to combine the two. We were first introduced to the L.A.-based designer’s effortlessly cool, folk-inspired jewelry line, HighLow, through her collection for Of a Kind and have been drooling over her pieces ever since. Here, Sonya answers our need-to-know questions.

When did your interest in creating jewelry start?

My interest in creating jewelry as an art form started about two years ago.  I had recently dropped out of art school and was living with my parents with not much space to work in.  I wanted to make things and my space restrictions forced me to work small scale.  This lead to the idea of working with materials used for jewelry.  It was all an experiment.

Where do you find inspiration?

Lots of places.  The web is one.  Whenever I see something that grabs my attention for a while I like to archive it on my blog.  Craft practices and folk culture are an influence.  Art is a huge source of inspiration.  Things that are on my mind or things that are part of my personal life show up in my work too.

Why did you call your line HighLow?

The name HighLow is referencing “high art” and “low art”.  I don’t really believe in these terms.  I find them silly.

What materials do you use in your work?

For my first line, I used a lot of vintage materials, brass, and paint.  I used what I was drawn too, particularly because I didn’t know how else to choose materials since I had never done it before.  My new release uses very different materials, and were chosen more meaningfully.  I’m working with clay, suede, and paint.  I seem to always want to use paint.

What is you favorite part about being a jewelry designer?

My favorite part is probably the design challenge involved in taking an art concept and making it functional and wearable.  

Do you have any peculiar habits?

I like to play with materials when I’m delirious from being up all night.  I’m not a night owl at all, but every now and then, I’ll stay up all night designing and in the early morning hours something amazing usually happens.  I seem to be able to access a creative part of my psyche when I’m totally delirious.  I learned this in art school after many all nighters.  

What kind of clothes have you most excited for fall?

Layers!  Scarves, tights, sweaters, coats - I love it all.

What is your favorite place in the world?

In park on a blanket under a tree.  

Visit the HighLow Jewelry site

Shop Sonya’s Of a Kind edition

A Creator’s Portrait with Nadia Koch

Let’s face it, there’s a lot of jewelry out there. Standing out from the crowd yet remaining relevant can be difficult for a jewelry designer. There seems to be some secret formula that some have mastered to achieve the perfect balance between novelty and iconic, couture and wearability. Nadia and Nancy Koch, the duo behind Nach Jewellery, have achieved this balance. Their expertly crafted line of porcelain jewelry is both whimsical and classic. At Nach the jewelry connoisseur will find rings sporting snails, horse heads complete with manes, lions, dogs, and more. Tiny pieces of citrus and bananas, and detailed flowers dangle from necklaces. Here, Nadia answers our questions.

When did your interest in creating jewelry start?

My sister and I have always loved fashion and especially fashion accessories. Since a couple of years we were keen to create something new, together, in that field. One year ago we launched our own jewelry brand, Nach.

Nach is the association of the first two letters of our first names (Nancy and Nadia) and the last two letters of our last name (Koch). Luckily, the meaning of Nach in the various languages is so far always positive according to our customers! 

Where do you find inspiration?

Nach is above all a story about animals. Actually, we sometimes wonder if we chose them or if they chose us! From a designer standpoint, the animals are great subjects and a real source of inspiration: the species, the shape, the posture, the color, the fur or feathers, the offspring, are part of the many graphic elements we can play with in our creations. And there are still many beautiful animals to turn into outstanding jewelry!

What made you want to create porcelain jewelry instead of typical porcelain products?

Our father has been into the porcelain miniatures’ creation for more than 30 years. We therefore grew up in this world, and have used this know-how to design our own jewelry. In that regards, porcelain of course makes all the difference as it magnifies the fineness of the details, gives a very soft touch, and also ensures that the piece will stay as it is forever. Designing jewelry as we do is more technically challenging than typical porcelain products, but it is far more rewarding in terms of pure creation – and creation is what makes our hearts beat. 

Do you wear your own designs?

Yes, of course! Our friends and family are doing so too.

Why did you want to create your own business instead of designing for another company?

The idea was to launch something together. We are two sisters, Nancy, who is more creative, is the designer and Nadia, who is more in the business, manages all the company. We are complementing each other very well. This is what makes us strong! Create our own brand was an evidence for us. 

How does the process of jewelry design effect what you choose to wear?

The jewelry is a key accessory of an outfit. It will highlight what you are wearing and will complete your style. We always match our jewelry with what we’re wearing. You can have a basic outfit but the jewelry can make it look quite different!

What were you wearing when you were 13?

My mustard yellow velvet dungarees, pretty stylish indeed!

What kind of clothes have you most excited for fall?

A little black leather dress.

Which recent purchase are you most excited about?

My cats’ eyes glasses from Tom Ford.

What is your favorite place in the world?

My bed, where I always feel good and peaceful… I’d just like sometimes to have more time to enjoy it!

Shop the line here.

Which Nach piece is calling your name? 

DIY: Chainmaking

Jewelry might be one of the most ubiquitous and fun things to DIY. There are so many possibilities for the designs and the supplies are inexpensive. That, and there is something glorious about being able to say, “I made this” when someone asks where you got that awesome necklace. One of the most basic and important skills to know when making your own jewelry is how to make a chain. We’ve figured out the easiest and cheapest way to make a basic chain that can be used to necklaces, bracelets, and more.

Supplies:

You’ll need some annealed steal wire in 20 gauge or thicker (this can be found at any hardware store). You may also use brass, copper, or silver wire, but we like the steel because it’s inexpensive, stronger, and can look like silver. You will also need wire cutters, two needle nose or chain nose pliers, and something cylindrical (like a pen, marker, or dowel rod) in the thickness that you want the chain-link (aka jump ring) diameter to be.

Step 1: Cut about a foot of your wire.

Step 2: Hold the wire tightly to your cylinder (we used a pen) and wrap the wire around it. You can also tape the end of your wire to hold it in place. Make sure that you wrap the wire with each loop as close to the next as possible without overlapping them.

Step 3: Slide the looped wire off and cut with your wire cutters. Make sure to cut one jump ring at a time in a straight line.

Step 4: Using the needle nose pliers, open the jump rings in order to link them together. Be sure to twist them open instead of pulling them open.

Step 5: Begin linking the jump rings together to form your chain.

Keep making jump rings and adding them to your chain until it is the length you want.

Step 6: Make a hook closure and attach to the end of your chain the same way you would put on another jump ring. For this you’ll need about 6 inches of wire.

Step 7: You can polish you chain by rubbing it between your hands. The more you do it, the shinier the wire will become.

You can play with the ring diameters and wire gauge to create different chains. Attach charms to create a sweet bracelet or wrap wire around a found object to make a one-of-a-kind necklace.