The Wiseling Blog

A Creator’s Portrait with Kate Jones

In a world full of overdesigned jewels, finding a piece that strikes the perfect balance between statement and understated elegance can seem like a lost cause. Luckily, there exists designers like Kate Jones. Drawing on a wealth of knowledge and experiences that most could only dream of, Kate creates the beautiful heirloom-worthy pieces that her brand Ursa Major has become known for. Her most recent architectural Collection No. 3 has really captured our attention with necklaces, earrings, bangles, and rings that promise to stand the test of time and outlast even the most popular of trends. Here, the master jeweler answers our questions. 

Image via Backyard Bill. 

When did your interest in creating jewelry begin?

The truth of the matter is, probably at about age 10. I spent a lot of time playing around with polymer clay (like Fimo and Sculpey) making my own beads. I was obsessed with the technique of “caning” or millefiori, and then I started making these funky animal brooches from it, Keith Haring-esque shaped fishes and dogs . My mom wore one into a store, and that was it, my first order. So I think I’ve had a business number since the age of 12.  

Did you study jewelry design or are you self-taught?

A little of both. My first metalsmithing class was at Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, in Deer Isle, Maine, through a high school program they did in the state.  Then I went onto study at Rhode Island School of Design, but I only did the first year of jewelry and metalsmithing before switching to textiles. It’s ironic, Lauren Manoogian and Caitlin Mociun were also classmates in textiles, and we all do jewelry now. I gained a tremendous technical foundation from RISD but learned a hell of a lot from just practical application and on-the-job experience, every summer I would return home to Maine and work in a small store called, A Silver Lining, doing repairs and custom work. That’s when I learned just how much of the craft is about tools and tricks, which is to say a lot. A whole lot.

Where do you find inspiration?

Oh boy, in everything. But if I had to name the top hits I’d say art and architecture, and in the pursuit of making old new again.

Do you like to wear your own pieces?

Of course! But when people ask me if I’m wearing any of my jewelry, I get bashful after about the third piece or so. I actually have to be a bit careful not to wear much of the jewelry I own but didn’t create because invariably people always pick that out first and excitedly say, “Did you make that?!”

What is your favorite part about being a jewelry designer?

The detail, the problem solving, and the opportunity to create a piece that might be handed down 100 years from now.

Describe your typical studio uniform.

Jeans and an old oversized Smith and Hawken denim shirt.

What is your fondest childhood memory?

Living on our sailboat, Ursa Major, we spent a lot of time hanging out in Antigua, and there was a spot called Shirley Heights. It was an old fort high up overlooking English and Falmouth Harbors, and every Sunday night was Jump Up, otherwise known as the classic Caribbean party: steel drums, reggae, BBQ, and rum punch. I was 8 and dancing my ass off with the locals, BBQ sauce smeared across my face. 

What are you most looking forward to in the new year?

Expanding the brand, new projects, and travel. I’m creating a line of hardware, collaborating on a bag, and foraying into the world of objects. I can’t wait.

Shop Ursa Major here. 

Visit the Ursa Major blog.

All images via the Ursa Major Collection No. 3 Lookbook.

Is there an artist, designer, or musician that you would like to see featured? Tell us about them in the comments.

A Creator’s Portrait with Orla Kiely

Irish designer Orla Kiely has accomplished a lot. On top of a successful line of clothing and handbags, the London-based designer has her hand in the creation of a number of other products including wallpaper, kitchenware, stationery, and furniture. However, she is best known for her youthful prints which have adorned everything from cars and buses to water bottles and even postage stamps. Not to mention that Kiely’s immense talent for creating these pretty prints and patterns has spawned a plethora of design collaborations with the likes of Uniqlo, Brita, and Citroën cars (to name a few). Here, the aptly titled “Queen of Prints” answers some of our questions. 

When did you first realize that you wanted to be involved in fashion?

My life has always been focused on design, color and print. I have always liked the same thing and been true to my style but growing up I always found it hard to find clothes that I loved. I remember when I would find something it was like an event! I wanted to design fashion that I loved and just hoped that other people would too!

Where do you find inspiration?

Most of my inspiration comes from the 1960’s and 70’s, the era of print and pattern. A lot of designs were inspired by contemporary art and architecture which is also something I have always loved. I have always said if I was not a fashion designer I would be an architect! I try to bring out the sense of energy and vitality that the 60’s and 70’s had.

Which aspect of design are you most passionate about?

My passion will always be for print. I design everything in house and simply love coming up with cute and original prints each season that are all exclusive to us. We have always been known for our colorful and bold prints and so I always try to design something that will excite and surprise our customers each season!

You are involved in a lot of projects. How do you stay balanced?

Each year we get involved in lots of different creative projects and collaborations and, however many we do, each one is always special and exciting. I am lucky enough to work with my Husband, Dermott, so this helps to keep my work life balanced and in control. We discuss everything together and living just a short stroll from the office means I am never far from everything. So, even when we are going though extremely busy periods, especially design deadlines, I can be home quickly. My home life is so important to me and being able to relax with my two boys and my dog Olive keeps my life in balance.

Which recent purchase are you most excited about? 

I recently got a Raleigh bike in pillar box red with a gorgeous brown leather saddle and handle bars. It’s still a little chilly outside but I can’t wait to take it for a spin.

The holidays have finally come and gone. What was your favorite thing about this holiday season?

It’s the perfect time to spend with all my family and I got the chance to go back to Ireland and see everyone together. You can’t get better than that! But I also love the excitement and buzz in the air. Everyone is in high spirits and it’s a time to reflect on my life and everything I’ve achieved.

If you could have a super power, what would it be?

To be able to rewind time so we could all live in the 60’s!

A Creator’s Portrait with Yegang Yoo

When it comes to fashion, Yegang Yoo is a designer with a capital “D”. A graduate of the Parsons School of Design, the Korean-born designer has worked for a number of big names including Hussein Chalayan and Rachel Comey, where she developed her incredibly imaginative aesthetic. Her first line was launched in 2008 and was sold in stores internationally. Then, in 2011, Yegang founded IMAGO-A. Locally sourced and manufactured in Brooklyn and Manhattan, her IMAGO-A designs gracefully toe the line between geometry and organic. Ultra-cool dresses lay on the body with an effortless drape and an angular coat makes a statement like no other. However, the breakout hit of IMAGO-A has been Yegang’s origami-esque handbags, which immediately caught our attention. Here, the up-and-coming designer answers our questions.

What first made you interested in fashion?

I have to say it was the fashion magazines that I came across when I was a little kid. I always had a thing for drawing, and when I started drawing clothes on fashion models from those editorial shots, similar to how you would be instructed to do in fashion schools, I got addicted to the world of fashion. My schooling back at home at that time was super strict and academic. It was one of my escapes to the exciting world outside!

Where do you find inspiration? 

It’s always some interesting shapes that inspire me - in sculptures, objects, architecture, other products, nature, etc. 

What made you want to create handbags in addition to your clothing line? 

I’ve always been a clothing designer throughout my career working at different places. I’ve always found myself drawn to sharper, more angular 3-D shapes which I think work better in handbags and accessories. When I tried a couple of handbag pieces for the IMAGO-A FW12 collection, I got hooked! 

What kind of materials are you most drawn to? 

Materials with interesting texture or shine, with some body to them to hold shapes.

Who are your favorite designers? 

Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo for their innovative shapes built with top notch tailoring skills. They are great examples of pushing the envelope with solid techniques. Dries Van Noten for his delicious mixture of colors, prints, texture and embellishment with fresh, modern sensibility every time! Nicolas Ghesquière for his continuous creativity and imagination executed to perfection. My list could go on and on, but these are a few on top of the list.

Which recent purchase are you most excited about?

I am really excited about this geometric embossed design that I will use for my upcoming collection!

What is your favorite thing to do over the holidays? 

I cook a lot, play card games with good drinks, music and good company.

Point of Reference: Wrist Watches

The wrist watch, as a piece of jewelry that is as practical as it is decorative, is unusual from its other utilitarian counterparts in that it was first created for and used by women. Seen as a passing fad in the early 1900s, the wrist watch would not catch on among men until World War I when they found that their pocket watches were well-suited to the trenches. 

Since then, the wrist watch has become the most ubiquitous piece of jewelry, worn by both men and women of all ages and across most cultures. With the development of new fabrication processes, watches now come in a wide variety of designs and levels of quality, from plastic fashion watches at Target to diamond encrusted designer heirlooms that cost as much as a house. With such a range, we like to find the perfect balance between quality and affordability. We love this Kate Spade watch as a timeless piece that is worth the investment, but won’t break the bank.

A Creator’s Portrait with Nadia Koch

Let’s face it, there’s a lot of jewelry out there. Standing out from the crowd yet remaining relevant can be difficult for a jewelry designer. There seems to be some secret formula that some have mastered to achieve the perfect balance between novelty and iconic, couture and wearability. Nadia and Nancy Koch, the duo behind Nach Jewellery, have achieved this balance. Their expertly crafted line of porcelain jewelry is both whimsical and classic. At Nach the jewelry connoisseur will find rings sporting snails, horse heads complete with manes, lions, dogs, and more. Tiny pieces of citrus and bananas, and detailed flowers dangle from necklaces. Here, Nadia answers our questions.

When did your interest in creating jewelry start?

My sister and I have always loved fashion and especially fashion accessories. Since a couple of years we were keen to create something new, together, in that field. One year ago we launched our own jewelry brand, Nach.

Nach is the association of the first two letters of our first names (Nancy and Nadia) and the last two letters of our last name (Koch). Luckily, the meaning of Nach in the various languages is so far always positive according to our customers! 

Where do you find inspiration?

Nach is above all a story about animals. Actually, we sometimes wonder if we chose them or if they chose us! From a designer standpoint, the animals are great subjects and a real source of inspiration: the species, the shape, the posture, the color, the fur or feathers, the offspring, are part of the many graphic elements we can play with in our creations. And there are still many beautiful animals to turn into outstanding jewelry!

What made you want to create porcelain jewelry instead of typical porcelain products?

Our father has been into the porcelain miniatures’ creation for more than 30 years. We therefore grew up in this world, and have used this know-how to design our own jewelry. In that regards, porcelain of course makes all the difference as it magnifies the fineness of the details, gives a very soft touch, and also ensures that the piece will stay as it is forever. Designing jewelry as we do is more technically challenging than typical porcelain products, but it is far more rewarding in terms of pure creation – and creation is what makes our hearts beat. 

Do you wear your own designs?

Yes, of course! Our friends and family are doing so too.

Why did you want to create your own business instead of designing for another company?

The idea was to launch something together. We are two sisters, Nancy, who is more creative, is the designer and Nadia, who is more in the business, manages all the company. We are complementing each other very well. This is what makes us strong! Create our own brand was an evidence for us. 

How does the process of jewelry design effect what you choose to wear?

The jewelry is a key accessory of an outfit. It will highlight what you are wearing and will complete your style. We always match our jewelry with what we’re wearing. You can have a basic outfit but the jewelry can make it look quite different!

What were you wearing when you were 13?

My mustard yellow velvet dungarees, pretty stylish indeed!

What kind of clothes have you most excited for fall?

A little black leather dress.

Which recent purchase are you most excited about?

My cats’ eyes glasses from Tom Ford.

What is your favorite place in the world?

My bed, where I always feel good and peaceful… I’d just like sometimes to have more time to enjoy it!

Shop the line here.

Which Nach piece is calling your name? 

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Trend Watch: Designer Sneakers

Whether color-block, canvas, leather, floral, or glittery, these pumped-up kicks prove that sneakers aren’t just for kids anymore.

1. Giuseppe Zanotti  2. Miu Miu  3. Isabel Marant  4. Asos  5. Jimmy Choo  6. Pierre Hardy  7. Nike

Closet Concierge, our new online consignment service in NYC

For our friends in NYC, we’re launching a brand new service just for you. Introducing Closet Concierge, our online consignment service. Enjoy low consignment fees on your unwanted vintage and designer pieces. We’ll pick up your items in Manhattan, photograph and market them on our online marketplace and you receive a check when the item sells. We’ll take care of all the heavy lifting so you can enjoy spare space in your closet and the cash to fill it back up. 

Closet Concierge is available for NYC residents by application only. Go here for more information. To apply, send us an email to concierge@wiseling.com. 

A Thrifting Guide with Ryo Miyamoto

Do you want to learn how to find unique designer pieces for a bargain? Streetstyle blogger Ryo Miyamoto  (otomayimbdipper.blogspot.com) showed us some of the best thrift stores in New York City and gave us valuable advice on how to sort out the treasures from the clutter. 

On the Streets of New York

We met with the lovely designer Gessica Brooke, gessicabrooke.com, with all her creative and colorful jewelry. She also makes the jeans on jeans work very well. You will be seeing more of her shortly. 

A Lesson in Style with Phillip Mastroianni

We met eyewear designer Philip Mastroaianni who designs handmade wooden shades for anni shades. He was taking a break in the sun with his beautiful old miner lunchbox.

What are you wearing today?
Today I’m wearing an old pair of Doc Martens that I bought back in 8th grade. Rolled up Levi’s jeans, and a black plaid button up shirt from Saturdays and just a white t-shirt. 

How would you describe your style?
I try to be as unique as possible. I guess my style today would be “Urban Hiker” because of my old miner lunch box. 

Do you have any styling advice to give?
Make your own rules, then break them!